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Post by hogsausage on Sept 12, 2011 16:33:59 GMT -4
Looking nice!!
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Post by felkman on Sept 15, 2011 20:32:05 GMT -4
I just pulled my clutch disks out and 3 were stuck together. I can't believe rocking the bike back in forth would not break them loose. I cleaned them with some kerosene and also cleaned out the "oil filter". Insides are pretty clean and it was nice to not find any plastic floating around from the chain tensioner. I called the Honda dealer and ordered a new gasket for the right side crankcase cover and that will be in on Tuesday. My Hid Headlight is not here yet so I guess I am not ready to ride anyway. Maybe next week.... or wait, something else will go wrong!
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Post by felkman on Sept 21, 2011 20:51:26 GMT -4
Got the gasket today from Honda and put my clutch back together. I changed the oil and put everything else back together. I cleaned it all up and when my wife got home I took her for a spin around the neighborhood a few times. I noticed that my neutral light was on no matter what gear I was in, and it never did that before. After about 10 minutes of riding, she started running bad. I got in the drive just as she died. I turned the key off and went in the house. I came out, checked the voltage and only had 11.5 . I went to start it and as soon as I turned the key the starter started turning over the bike on its own. I don't know if it is my HID light pulling too many amps or if my started button is stuck or if there is a problem with the starter. Dang it, another problem, will I ever get to ride this bike? I do like it but not use to having a hot cylinder head by my knees, they are usually by my feet!
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Post by novafrk on Sept 23, 2011 9:49:30 GMT -4
Hey felkman,
Electrical gremlins suck! How much juice does the hid draw? The alternators on those early 70's honda's weren't designed to run the lights all the time like bikes are now. It wasn't a law that the lights had to be on until the late 70's I think. My 350 wouldn't keep the battery charged until I replaced the tail light and turn signals and the gauge lights with led's. The head light was still the stock bulb. After that it would keep the charge. Oh also the solid state rectifier/regulator is a must, it is much more efficient at it's job. (I don't know if you have one or not). I know the the 350 honda sites I was a part of most recommendations were against the hid mod because the stock charging system can't keep up. I can't remember if anyone makes a higher output stator or not. Good luck.
Nova
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Post by novafrk on Sept 23, 2011 9:52:57 GMT -4
OH, something else I had to do to my little honda. I took apart every electrical connection, cleaned the corrosion off of them and put dielectric grease on them. Poor connections can increase the resistance and lower the effective output too. The nutral light staying on sounds like a possible bad ground. 0.02$ :-)
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Post by felkman on Sept 23, 2011 13:11:14 GMT -4
Hey felkman, Electrical gremlins suck! How much juice does the hid draw? The alternators on those early 70's honda's weren't designed to run the lights all the time like bikes are now. It wasn't a law that the lights had to be on until the late 70's I think. My 350 wouldn't keep the battery charged until I replaced the tail light and turn signals and the gauge lights with led's. The head light was still the stock bulb. After that it would keep the charge. Oh also the solid state rectifier/regulator is a must, it is much more efficient at it's job. (I don't know if you have one or not). I know the the 350 honda sites I was a part of most recommendations were against the hid mod because the stock charging system can't keep up. I can't remember if anyone makes a higher output stator or not. Good luck. Nova My start push button has a crack in it and is stuck in, I ordered a new one yesterday along with a new rectifier from oregonmotorcycleparts.com. I am also going to do the yellow/white wire switcharoo in the headlight bucket so the alternator will be charging at full charge all the time instead of only when the brights are on. As soon as I get that stuff done I will check the draw from the HID. I read that the hid uses more amps for the first few seconds then actually will draw less than a standard 35w bulb after it is lit up (that thing is flippin bright). I have replaced my tail light with a led (that thing is flippin dim) and I have bulbs for the other lights, but have not yet installed them yet. I will let you know what my findings are as soon as I get my parts.
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Post by novafrk on Sept 25, 2011 13:41:43 GMT -4
Your tail light is dim with an led? That sounds odd. May have a problem with ground in that socket. I didn't know that about hid's... Hmm I'll have to look into those.
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Post by felkman on Sept 25, 2011 16:09:07 GMT -4
Led s are nowhere near as bright as a standard incandescent bulb. Already having trouble with my HID headlight, I think I burned up my cheap China made transformer, glad I have another one and a 2 year warranty on it.
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Post by novafrk on Sept 27, 2011 7:37:39 GMT -4
Huh. I thought leds were brighter. Might depend on the bulb. Either way you'll figure it out. Can't wait to see it.
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Post by felkman on Oct 6, 2011 10:58:41 GMT -4
So I finally got my new rectifier from oregonmotorcycleparts.com, I also connected it to a heat sink from my pile of computer parts I have to keep it nice and cool. I switched the wires in the headlight bucket to keep the generator working full time instead of only while the brights are on. Looks like it is going to do the job for the charging. I took her for another ride and after about 3 minutes she started cutting out like it was starving for fuel. I am still waiting on some larger jets but I don't think that is the whole problem since it runs great when I first start it and if it sits for a couple of minutes after running badly, it starts right up and runs great again, well, for a couple minutes anyway. Must be a fuel problem. I guess I have to pull the carbs off again anyway to change out the jets when they get here. I was so hoping to have her at first Thursday tonight but.......... maybe next year!
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Post by novafrk on Oct 6, 2011 12:49:57 GMT -4
Have you had the petcock apart? On my 73 there was a small brass screen inside. That catches big chunks. I could see where it might be plugged and restricting fuel flow.
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Post by felkman on Nov 23, 2011 15:47:10 GMT -4
I have not touched my cb450 in a while, I don't know if it is the cold weather, family time, or just that I am lazy. Missing the last Indyvinmoto first Thursday that usually motivates me may not have helped either but I have still been thinking about her for next spring. One thing I have been thinking about is my rear (rear of the bike that is). I installed shocks from a CB900f and I love the looks of them but they are quite a bit longer than the original shocks. So long that they lift the rear of the bike up higher and when the bike is on the center stand, it is almost unsafe and about to fall over from a light breeze. I was going to just weld some blocks on the bottom of the center stand. Instead of lifting the rear, I would like it to be lower than stock. Here is where my question comes in...... I have read that the cb360 swingarm will bolt right onto a cb450 frame and since the swing arm is longer and the mounts are farther back that it would lower the bike and make it handle even better. Has anyone done this before? I don't know if there is anybody on the forum with a cb450 but I know there are several Honda guys on here that may know about this. Any thoughts? Yes, I know it would just be easier to put the stock rear shocks on but come on, these look so much cooler and so would a longer swingarm even if it is only 2"!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2011 18:45:05 GMT -4
I'm working on a swingarm swap myself. hopefully a member has a 450 arm to let you inspect. as long as the pivot bolt is the same, and the pivot end can be either cut, or spaced, it should work fine. a tad bit longer may even look better. there is also the option of cutting the shock coils. gotta make a weird tool to scrunch the coils down and take it apart. at least thats how the Yammie shocks are. I took mine apart to clean and paint them. might talk to Steve about cutting, I know he has done it. I have a metal band saw if you get the notion.
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Post by felkman on Dec 3, 2011 0:05:33 GMT -4
I think I am going to do the swingarm swap. I found that it will just bolt in and I only have to do a few modifications to make it work. I have the high bid on one now on ebay so I may know for sure here pretty soon. Cutting the coil springs is not an option, the eye to eye distance will be the same and that spring needs be a certain length to hold the shocks together, plus the springs are brand new Progressives.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2011 15:47:15 GMT -4
Every day I walk by this bike wishing I was riding it instead of just walking by it. Last night I got a chance to work on it while the kids were asleep & my wife watched recorded episodes of Dancing with the stars . Anyway, I realized that if I want to ride it this year, I need to do something fast. Well, I decided to hold off on some of the modifications I planned and just put some of the original parts back on until a later time. I am rigging up the stock seat, putting the fenders back on, and I put the stock foot pegs back on her. I still plan on making a fiberglass seat, installing rear sets, and modifying the fenders a little but, I would rather ride it than just look at it. I hope this speeds things up a bit. I just happened to notice your Bomber Cafe, have you finished this bike? I love it! My father had a bomber when I was a kid, I remember the ride's he use to give me...Thats what got me hooked..
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